Cutting herbs
We sell a lot of herbs from Plantpassion. They are, by stem count, our biggest seller. I always cut the herbs as the first thing each morning (apart from sweet peas) as they need a longer time to condition, and particularly for Mint, I find that they need to be picked in the coolest part of the day. Mint, Lemon balm, Thyme, Sage, Oregano, Rosemary and Dill between them will give you a full 12 months of scent in your bouquets.
The next key thing is to cut as low as you can go. Mint, Lemon Balm, and Oregano particularly will produce the best fresh shoots if they come from ground level, so cut the stem right back to the bottom.
For an early start to the season, Rosemary and Thyme can't be beaten. Rosemary is available from my field for about 10 months of the year, with just May and June, when the new shoots are too soft, are times to avoid it. Rosemary will produce the best and longest stems if again you cut hard into the plant, - this may need secateurs rather than snips.
Apple mint is the earliest perennial herb to start producing. This patch in my poly tunnel is the most profitable square metre in there. (Actually it's now 2 square metres because the sage and thyme at the front of this picture did better outside, and the mint did better inside) This picture was taken on the 14th April, and I'd already started picking this patch. It usually produces 2 more complete sets of shoots, over the next 4 months. Then in the summer I take it all out, as by now it's trying to take over the whole bed, and plant 16 new plants again. This patch of soil hasn't had any fertiliser other than a couple of barrows of compost for the last 6 years but grows mint with very little attention.
Lemon Balm doesn't have as long a season as Mint, but the fresh scented stems are great for June and July bouquets.
The annual herbs Dill and Basil are fantastic for summer scent and colour. These may need a succession sowing, as each plant will only give you between 3 and 5 stems, (compared to many many stems from a rosemary or mint plant) and then maybe a 2nd flush. But are not particularly long lasting, a couple of weeks or 3 at most. Again cut hard, long stems will give your customers excellent value, and you the chance for more stems next week.
Shrubs for all year round foliage
Unlike the annual and perennial flowers which often only have a 3 week window of picking and need to be picked immediately upon blooming, shrubs are great for hanging around and being there when you need them. The only downside to that, is that although they are there all the time, there is often a best time, and a not good time of the year for cutting them. So here we're mainly going to be talking about the period of time that is good for them to be harvested.
Eucalyptus: New growth on Eucalyptus is unlikely to be hard enough to be picked until the end of September. As this is a time on my field when I still have lots of summer foliage, I tend to leave my plants until the end of October and use them for all my winter and early spring bouquets. By April it is likely to be coming into growth again, so should have been pollarded or used by then to ensure the maximum new growth during the growing season. Cut back hard to a metre or less from the ground, Eucalyptus can grow 2 metres in a season once established.
Senicio (Brachyglottis): The silvery foliage is excellent in winter and early spring. It will then have a flush of growth, and will become soft for a couple of months, before it becomes great to use again mid summer. This is the time to cut it really hard, because otherwise it produces its yellow flowers.
Privet: This hedging shrub is invaluable as a mid season foliage when lots of other shrubs are still soft. Long single stems will have formed by June, with a deep green colour, and if you've left the plant unchecked it will also flower with highly perfumed blooms in July. Although privet is semi evergreen, it's yellowing leaves in winter mean it is best used as a summer shrub.
Spirea: Just as the leaves come out in March or April, Spirea is great to add some colour and interest. By the time the leaves are all fully formed, the foliage is too soft and will droop, so there is a limited 10 day window to use this in Spring. Later in the summer by late July or August, when it starts to flower, the foliage will have hardened, and you can again use it. Bridal wreath Spirea has great shoots to use when bare of leaves, but full of flowers in April. There are quite a few varieties of Spirea, so by having a few shrubs of each, you’ll have a longer window of spring, summer and autumn foliage
Pittosporum: Another key winter shrub, particularly the variegated forms will add colour into displays, and it can be pruned to a bud of any length between October and April. The new shoots start forming as growth starts, and the foliage will wilt during the late spring and summer months.
Physocarpus: Like Spirea, this shrub has a very small window for use in Spring, just as the leaf buds are emerging, and then it needs until late July or August until the foliage is firm enough for use. If, unlike me, you have a large enough plant to not cut it all, then the arching flower shoots can be cut in early Summer, but lower leaves may wilt, so need to be stripped.
Tree foliage
Paula has lots of trees on her plot, so here are her tips for cutting them to sell. Large branches can have a fabulous impact in spectacular arrangements such as urns, hanging pieces and arches. To help them to last well once cut:
Choose the most appropriate foliage at the right time of year. Tree foliage varies a lot, it can be too soft to cut when the leaves first emerge, or fail to hold moisture late in the season. It really depends on the variety - the only way to be sure whether it will last is to test it.
Cut as with flowers, in the cool part of the day, either morning or evening
Cut at least 36 hours before use, but preferably 48 hours
Immerse as fully as possible in water – a barrel is ideal for larger branches, a bath or trough for smaller ones. Keep moist for as long as possible.
For transportation, wrap in a clean tarpaulin.
